How to hike The Yorkshire 3 Peaks Challenge 2023: 10 expert tips from the CGR Team

 

Ingleborough – the final summit of the 3 Peaks.

We have a wealth of experience here at CGR for completing the Yorkshire 3 Peaks Challenge (or the Y3P as we locals call it): Dave has guided the route, Richie has run the race several times back in the days when the Daily Mirror was the headline sponsor and is on an unbroken run of 11 Three Peaks Cyclocross races whilst Kev has also run it numerous times when training. We all feel that it’s a great adventure and with good planning and fitness should be within the reach of most experienced hikers.

The Guardian recently listed the Yorkshire Three Peaks in the 10 most popular walks in the UK according to the OS map app, in fact it was number 1! We would never recommend relying on just a phone app for navigation, using a map and compass is so much more satisfying and better for your mental health. So expect summer crowds and it will be popular and much of the navigation is straight forward.

That said, the Y3P should not be underestimated and we have seen our share of incidents (mostly sun stroke and exhaustion) and so planning is vital. We always suggest a support vehicle for newbies, but that doesn’t mean you need one if you are a more experienced hiker. Here, the CGR team offer their best 10 tips to help you complete the Y3P, safely and enjoyably.

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Weight. Light is Right. Go through your pack with a fine tooth comb. Do you really need it all? Remember there are food stops at Ribblehead (tea van), the farm shop at Philpin (SD7425 7787); weekends only for the snackbar, and The Hill Inn (SD7434 7763) so maybe you don’t need to take 10hrs worth of food and water. Drink plenty before you set off, you can top up with drinks at the stops and carry the rest, remember water is heavy. So plan for a litre on every leg, maybe 1.5L on the first leg as it’s the longest. Make sure all your kit is as light as you can afford. As a guide a 15-30L pack is big enough to get everything in (but the team now use a modern Running Vest style packs).

The smaller the pack the less you’ll take! We find 15L is more than enough. The right hand pack shows our recommended Black Diamond pack with the Rab Xenair and Leki Ultrailtrail poles.

Footwear. Consider wearing lightweight hiking shoes and carry spare socks. The whole walk can be done in trainers and at the latter part of the day (Ingleborough to Horton in Ribblesdale) you’ll be glad of it.  We have never done the walk wearing walking boots. Our footwear choice is a pair trainers or lightweight hiking shoes, extra pair of socks (Seal Skinz can be good for the first section over Horton Moor which is often wet). I have never had a blister with this combination. Do, however, carry a couple of blister plasters and be very aware of hotspots appearing on your feet. At every stop take off your socks and let your feet dry out – also if you find a hotspot and treat it immediately.

Navigation. It’s very tempting to take the right hand fork after you have dropped off Pen-y-Ghent, it seems like a short cut) This is often very wet, super boggy and will slow you down. There is a large stream and big boggy area to cross. Better to follow the race route, much drier and faster. Drop down the good path towards Hull Pot, continue over the small hillock and pick up a faint path heading rightwards. Much of the route has been upgraded and is well signposted these days.

yorkshire_3_peaks_sign

Dave has seen some hilarious incidents at Todber Moss with people thinking they can jump across and ending up thigh deep in the bog. It’s a very long section over Horton Moor, Middle Pasture to Nether Lodge, but get psyched as its good ground and you can cover it fast. Be motivated by the fact that there will be food and drink at Ribblehead. The scenery will help, it’s varied and stunning along this section. Most of the time navigation is straight forward, much of the route is signposted and if you are planning to do the challenge on a weekend in June, July or August then you’ll just need to follow the crowds. That said good navigation skills are essential, Ingleborough is notorious when the cloud drops down and people often find themselves heading towards Ingleton or Clapham! Also, it is easy to overshoot the drop off from Whernside when the cloud is down. Don’t rely on signal to help you out – have a map downloaded onto your phone for offline use. Or better still invest in your map and compass skills. Plan the route out beforehand and mark on or write down your bearings on a route card – if it’s miserable on top you want to quickly pick up the way off. If you have a GPS watch such as the COROS APEX2 Pro you can pre load the route as a .gpx or just call up the map (top tip : set the light button shortcut to switch to map) to check you navigation.

Ingleborogh with perfect visibility – it was totally clouded over the next day so careful navigation would have been needed.

Season. The best time of year to attempt the route is in September, the ground is often drier and you’ll lose the crowds; if you have mid week time then you’ll often have the route to yourselves. The busy Charity Challenge times are May through to August.  We’ve been snowed on ascending Whernside in May and Dave has had clients with severe sunburn and sunstroke in June/July. September is usually a beautiful month in The Dales and Dave remembers completing the walk one September and seeing only one other party. Dave has lead groups around in June and it’s often completely rammed. Rich turned up at the main Horton car park, in order to run up and down Pen Y Ghent seven times for the ‘running up fo air challenge’, at 7am to only just nab the second to last car parking space! During the summer season overflow parking is available in the field just over the bridge in Horton too.

Use walking poles. We can’t emphasise the importance of these highly underrated tools. Even if you don’t use them most of the day, you’ll be glad of them at the end. Buy the best (and lightest) you can afford and we recommend carbon fibre ones that fold up small enough to fit in your pack, they are so light you won’t know you have them!

Walking poles can be a real help on steep ground – be sure to use two! Here we show the Leki Ultratrail FX.One Trailrunning poles. Lighweight and compact. The lightweight ethic is enhanced using the Jack Wolfskin Prelight Alpha Vest – which proved useful as it was quite windy on the summit.

Water. You can stash water and extra food at Ribblehead viaduct and the pumping station at SD7453 7772, leave 1.5 litres of water at each stop. Collapsible bottles like the Hydrapaks are great for easy drinking and stashing when empty. If you use a modern ‘running vest’ style pack they are always there to encourage you to hydrate and you can keep an eye on your consumption. A bladder will do a similar job but some are not as convenient to refill and it can be harder to know when the tank is approaching empty! Being able to hydrate on the go helps reduce wasted time through stoppages. You can get drinks at the burger van, Philpin and the Hill Inn. There are springs and those of you with the experience to assess the the hazards of drinking direct a lightweight filter such as the LifeStraw or the LifeStraw Bottle it is possible to complete the hike without stashed water, however, you will need to locate the springs yourself with a map as we’re not going to tempt the unwary!

There are options for stops – Dave checks out the van at Ribblehead for an ice cream and bag of salted crisps. Of course he had a 99, he’s earning it!

Food. Sort your food out. We’ve tried lots of different food options. We’re often trying to get a sub 7 hour time (for hiking); this leaves us with very few stops so we eat on the move. Our favourites are a variety of chewy bar type food; We can stash these in all sorts of pockets, they don’t melt and can be digested easily. They are expensive though and we try to motivate ourselves by reminding ourselves that: we may go hungry but we won’t starve and we can always look forward to Fish and Chips in Settle at the end of the day. Remember there is the tea van at Ribblehead (after Pen Y Ghent) and the farm shop at Philpin (after Whernside) so you don’t need a tupperware box full of butties (unless you want to!) minimising stopped time is the key to a quick round. In the CX race Richie usually takes two bananas, three gels and three bottles of an isotonic drink mix for the four hours to get round but work out your needs for the length of time you think you’ll be out – and then take a little extra! Dave’s drink choice is water mixed with isotonic hydration tablets such as Nunn or SIS Go. He can carry them and add them to water when he wants some flavouring; they stay down too! He remembers drinking the orange squash at Philpin only to bring it all up again, climbing Ingleborough. (Gels? Yuk!  In Dave’s humble opinion of course). A useful strategy used by long distance trail runners is to set a timer on your watch to remind you to eat and drink, setting it to every 30minutes will encourage a steady intake of carbs and liquid especially if you are going for a ‘time’! Using a running style vest pack will mean you can keep your food and drink constantly accessible – if it’s in the bottom of your pack you just won’t get it out unless it’s a proper stop! Remember you must start fuelling from the outset – don’t leave it for a couple of hours as over the course of 7+ hour day you will not be able to make up the deficit. There is a great article on nutrition for big mountain days by nutritionist Rebecca Dent here https://www.rebeccadent.co.uk/nutrition-articles/2018/2/6/nutrition-tips-for-long-mountain-days

Time. Keep a good time. The record for running the race is just under 2hrs 30mins!! (but remember the race route is shorter as it uses some sections that are open for access on race day only though) Now I’m not suggesting trying to keep that, but I’ve lead school groups around and just made the 12hrs. We believe that sub 9 hrs is a good time for most fit people. That means, to be under 9 hours you’ll be dressing and carrying appropriately light kit, have a good mindset and be speed walking/jogging some of it. 

The 3 Peaks cafe is no longer open (as of May 2023) so you will no longer be able to join the traditional ‘Three Peaks of Yorkshire Club’ with a sub 12hrs time, so if you want a medal you’ll have to join an organised event. If you are thinking of pulling out en route then there are taxi companies based in Settle, Stainforth and Ingleton and you may need up to £50 to get you back to Horton on a busy weekend! There are buses from Hawes to Ingleton and Hawes to Settle but they are infrequent and to get from The Hill Inn back to Horton in Ribblesdale would take a long time. (You can, however walk back to Ribblehead and get the train back to Horton or Settle).

There have been some huge improvements to the Y3P path over the past few years, as you can see it is quite clear descending the summit of Pen-y-Ghent. You can also see Whernside and Inglborough – very far away!!!

First Aid. Carry first aid, but don’t go mad! We’ve seen some monstrous First Aid kits in the years we’ve been walking the 3 Peaks. The most likely ailment you will deal with will be blisters or a sprain so make sure you know what to do and have the relevant supplies. Remember the area is very populated and you are never too far from a road. You can get a good quality signal from most of the route, so an MRT is never that far away. It never fails to astonish me that hikers and climbers in the UK are too embarrassed to call for rescue and will try to ‘sort it out themselves’. If you’ve had a genuine accident, don’t hesitate. Always carry an emergency shelter. So, my 1st Aid kit consists of some blister plasters, a 6” bandage, sunscreen, gaffer tape and a tube of Volterol Gel. Obviously if you are a group leader you will have greater responsibilities and will need to pack accordingly. Do go on a specialised First Aid course, better to have a good knowledge of first aid and a small kit, than a huge kit and no knowledge of what to do. Remember – knowledge is ultra lightweight!!

Go on, enjoy yourselves. You know you want to!

Enjoy It! Enjoy your day, sometimes you’ll be asking yourself why you signed up. But it’s a very beautiful part of Yorkshire, so take some time to soak it all in and remember to take your camera. If you are very lucky and in the right place at the right time the orchids can be stunning. Enjoy!

 

Yorkshire 3 Peaks Challenge Essential Kit List

You don’t need to spend a fortune kitting yourself out, but you should be well prepared. So we bring the wealth of CGR kit experience together to offer you our recommended kit list for completing the challenge.

Rab Xenair Alpine Light Jacket

Even on the warmest of days, the temperature can drop suddenly. Dave has completed the Y3P in hail and sudden snow storms so it makes sense to pack an insulating layer. The Rab Xenair Alpine Light is an excellent, ridiculously light and comfortable synthetic jacket. Weighing in at a super light 293g and mega packable you will easily find space for it in the smallest of packs. The filling is high-quality Primaloft Gold Active+ and is body mapped to provide warmth where you need it and the Pertex Quantum Air outer has a DWR coating so should keep off any sudden showers. You could easily use this and dispense with the hardshell if the forecast is good. Two zipped hand warmer pockets will come in handy for those cooler rest stops and a zipped inner chest pocket will stash food and phones. It is also big enough to act as a pack away. The hood is perfect for popping over a cap and is warm enough for you to leave the beanie at home. Other finishing features include YKK zips throughout, elasticated cuffs and hem which will help keep any warmth in. Highly recommended!

The Rab Xenair Alpine Light comes in a nice range of colour options and sizes S-XL for men and UK 8-16 for women. The SRP is £175 and it can be purchased directly from Rab UK.

Salomon X Ultra 4 GTX

Having the right shoes to tackle the Y3P can make the difference between a good, solid time and a crippling nightmare! The Salomon X Ultra range are a tried and tested model and the new, updated 2023 X Ultra 4 won’t disappoint. Packed full of innovative features the shoes deliver a lightweight and comfortable hiking experience. At 410g (per shoe UK8.5) your legs will certainly appreciate them on that final long leg back to Horton-in-Ribblesdale and the new ADV/C active support will offer stability on the steep descent off Whernside. The tried and tested Contigrip sole has good lug spacing so will offer grip on both dry and wet ground. The protective toe rand will also help deaden the pain when your legs get tired and you stub your toes! There is also some extra cushioning with the Ortholite insole which works well with the shock-absorbing EVA midsole and the heel lip. The GTX version are waterproof, although there is a non Gore-Tex version for those who prefer extra breathability and the iconic Quicklace system should need no introduction (just remember to pop the excess lace in its pouch on the tongue) and a final finishing touch is a larger heel tab to help get them off after a long and successful day out!

The Salomon X Ultra 4 GTX comes in sizes UK 6.6 – 13.5 for men and UK4-9.5 for women and both come in two colour options. The SRP is £130 and they can be bought directly from Salomon.

Jack Wolfskin Prelight Alpha Vest

To say that the Jack Wolfskin Prelight Alpha Vest is light would be a massive understatement. Weighting in at an outrageous 140g you won’t even know you’ve got it on, let alone think about whether to pack it or not (a no brainer!). The Pertex Quantum Air fabric is gossamer thin and the tight weave will keep out any breeze that blows in on the summits. In fact it’s so light you can put it on and keep it on for the entire round and it would work perfectly on warmer days with a cool breeze. Extra warmth is provided by careful use of Polatec Alpha which is body mapped onto the top half of the vest and offers both a little warmth and superior wicking on this steep ascents of Pen-y-Ghent and Ingleborough. Gridded fleece side panels also prevent overheating and give the jacket some stretch and elasticated pits and cuffs help keep the warm air in and prevent the hem from staging in pack belts. Finishing touches include YKK zips throughout and two meshed hand warmer pockets for stuffing gloves or any other smaller items you might want quick access to. A great vest that you will find using for all your active adventures.

The Jack Wolfskin Prelight Alpha Vest comes in two colours and sizes S- XXL.

The SRP is £125 and it can be bought directly from Jack Wolfskin UK.

Montane Dart Lite T-Shirt

Light is right when completing the Y3P challenge. The Montane Dart Lite T-Shirt fits that ethos perfectly, weighing in at a mere 100g (size L). It’s soft and breathable so perfect next to skin and should remain comfortable all day long. All the seams are flat lock sewn and placed to reduce irritation when wearing a pack. It is super wicking and quick to dry after that steep ascent and the Polygiene Biostatic treatment helps keep the odour at bay when you’re at the drink and fuelling stops. The fit is athletic so hugs the body nice and snug – which means no flapping of excess material when the breeze gets up. The main fabric is made from recycled polyester and at £35 you can afford to have a spare in your pack (which is more useful than you think it will be).

The Montane Dart Lite T-Shirt comes in various colours. Sizes are XS – XXXL for men and UK6 – 16 for women. The SRP is £35 and it can be bought direct from Montane.

Klättermusen Bele Lightweight Shorts

The Bele shorts are part of Klättermusen’s new fast and light range and they certainly live up to the name weighing in at barely 95g but it’s their chaff free quick drying comfort that makes them a winer!

Made from a new soft Ultralight Oculus® Ripstop fabric in 100% recycled polyester that’s silent, frictionless and quick drying all of which makes them ideal for those hot humid days when a pair of cotton shorts could lead to chaffing and discomfort. These shorts ouse quality right down to the micro aluminium toggle on the draw cord and while clearly not cheap they are likely to last a long time even with thier featherweight materials. The Bele is unlined meaning you can choose your own favourite base layer briefs and also means swapping to long trousers is more comfortable than with a pair of lined shorts. A laminated hem to further helps to prevent chafing by eliminating another seam. Additional features include two deep elastic mesh pockets around the hip for supplies and a central rear elastic mesh pocket that will stash a lightweight windproof, gloves or hat. These pockets work well with a running pack or a fast and light pack like the BD Pursuit 15 allowing you to keep fuelled on the go and make minor clothing adjustments without the need to stop and take off your pack. If you’re trying to get round the Three Peaks in a ‘good’ time efficiency counts for a lot! Think RFM (relentless forward motion) try and avoid stopping

The Bele Lightweight Shorts are available from Klättermusen in both a men’s and a women’s cut at an SRP of £125

Black Diamond Pursuit 15 Backpack

The smaller and lighter your pack the better. Smaller means mindful packing and really thinking about what you need to take and what might be useful in an emergency. All the kit we’re recommending here will fit comfortably into the brilliant Black Diamond Pursuit 15 Backpack. Black Diamond (or BD to climbers and trail runners) are no strangers to well thought out kit and the Pursuit 15 is no exception. Using all their knowledge and experience of iconic trail running packs and applying it to the Pursuit 15 they have produced a superlative pack for fast paced hiking and day adventures. The Pursuit 15 comes jam packed with features: running pack style chest harness complete with a zipped phone pocket, 2 expanding pockets for stuffing energy bars and a larger pocket for a soft flask; this is all locked into place with double chest straps.There’s an easy access hydration pocket that will swallow a 2 litre bladder and a main compartment big enough for all those little extras such as an insulating layer, spare socks and t-shirt and some extra food. There is also a mesh security pocket with a key clip, all secured with a well sized water reliant zip. At the front there is a large expanding pocket for stowing windproof layers and gloves and there are two side pockets to stash even more kit or poles. Finishing touches include daisy chain webbing for lashing, super light compression cord, a large super comfortable waist belt and plenty of recycled content. All this for 640g! The pursuit range also includes a 30L pack, a 6L waist pack and ultralight hiking poles (the BD Distance poles) which we featured when we last updated in 2018.

The Black Diamond Pursuit 15 pack comes in sizes S-L (think t-shirt size). The SRP is £120 and is available at Ordnance Survey: https://shop.ordnancesurvey.co.uk/black-diamond-mens-pursuit-15l-daypack/

Leki Ultratrail FX.One Trailrunning Poles

Trekking poles, you either love ‘em or hate ‘em. We here at CGR are total lovers of them and view them as a critical part of any fast paced hiking or running activity. Believe me, your legs will appreciate them for that last 5 mile stretch along Sulber Nick. Note our use of ‘them’ poles are most effective when used as a pair so make sure you use two and learn some basic techniques. So now we have persuaded you to use them why not treat yourself to a great pair of German engineered Leki Ultratrail FX.One poles. Specifically engineered for long distance ultra trail running these fixed length poles have everything you will need for years of hiking around the mountains. These folding poles are lightweight, compact and super comfortable thanks to the ergonomically shaped cork handles. The carbon shaft is quick and easy to deploy and solidly locks into place with a spring lock. They are compact enough to fit inside our recommended pack or more usually in the exterior pockets and the removable Shark grip system works seamlessly and clicks in and out of the handle with minimum fuss. The strap is super comfortable and easy to use and will fit over thin gloves. Weighing in at 185g for the pair and with outstanding quality and features these are a solid investment and much cheaper than new knees!

The Leki Ultratrail FX.One comes in sizes 105 – 135cm (see the website for a size chart) the SRP is £180 and they can bought direct from leki.co.uk

1000 Mile Fusion Repreve Double Layer Walking Socks

As we said in the main article, the right footwear can mean the difference between a comfortable, fast time and total misery. Socks are an often overlooked, but vital part of the footwear kit. The 1000 Mile Fusion Repreve Double Layer Walking Socks are definitely investing in. We recommend two pairs with a spare in your pack. These calf length versions are super comfortable and the 1000 Mile double layer works a treat with a wicking inner layer and a outer layer made using a variety of technical yarns that offer comfort and support. They also have extra padding in the all important heel and toe areas and double layer really does seem to reduce friction. The calf length not only offers a little support and warmth but will also help keep the socks at bay! The Repreve series offers recycled Nylon content for a more sustainable purchase.

The 1000 Mile 1000 Mile Fusion Repreve Double Layer Walking Socks come in two colour options and sizes M, L and XL. There is a female specific version in sizes S and M. They cost £18.50 per pair and be bought directly from 1000mile.co.uk

Trekmates Atacama Cap

A hat is a very useful addition to your kitlist and this one from Trekmates ticks all the boxes: lightweight ✅, compact ✅, quick drying ✅, breathable ✅, it even has a zip away legionnaire flap for when the sun comes out (which it does occasionally). It comes in a cool range of colours and is well priced at £24.00 and available direct from trekmates.co.uk

Klatermussen Belle Shorts

Other miscellaneous items that are useful include:  lip salve, sun screen (I use a block style sunscreen and this doubles up as lip salve), mobile phone (fully charged + spare battery and lead as well waterproof case to keep it dry and warm),  5L Sea to Summit Dry bag to keep essentails clean and dry (£16:00 from seatosummit.co.uk), a first aid kit plus UP Ultimate Blister Plasters (£5.00 direct from upmedical.co.cuk). £50 cash (in case you need to call a taxi from the Hill Inn).

Food: 6 x Energy Bars and a 1 litre of water. I’ve either got support or I’ve stashed water. or fill up at springs. I’ll eat a bags of ready salted crisps at Ribblehead and Philpin and top up with some liquid too. I’ll be hungry but I won’t starve. I’ll have a sandwich and brew back at the car and maybe a visit to the chippy in Settle.

Finally:

Try and spend a bit of money locally to treat yourself and put back into the local economy when you’ve finished. There are a few good pubs (the Helwith Bridge Inn and the The Hill Inn stand out) as well as cafes and fish and chip shops in Settle and Ingleton.

Great Fish and Chips at the Fisherman’s in Settle; go on you’ve earned it! All manner of eateries in Settle, some quite posh!

Brilliant kit shop at Castleberg Outdoors in Settle for those last minute items. 

Quality accommodation in Settle. There are also some bunkbarns and campsites at Stainforth

Camping: at Horton – in – Ribblesdale at Holme Farm and in Chapel-leDale at  Philpin Farm. You can complete the route from both locations.

Helwith Bridge Camping Barn and camping, free park up for vans etc a few minutes from the route but adjacent to the Helwith Bridge Inn for beer! http://www.helwithbridgeinn.co.uk/campingbunks.html

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Disclaimer – CGR reviewers and writers are never paid to provide a review and the website does not take advertising or link to affiliate sales. We are a bunch of keen climbers and travellers that accept sample products and offer an honest and independent review of the item. The reviewer will often keep the sample after reviewing it for both hygiene and safety reasons and more often it’s in no fit state to return!

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