Edelrid Prisma Harness Review

Edelrid say: “Ultra-light, lined sport climbing harness predestined for the toughest of projects and alpine sport climbing. The anatomical cut of the waist belt and leg loops means that despite its low weight, the PRISMA is astonishingly comfortable. Thanks to the combination of Dyneema® on the inside and polyamide on the outside, the innovative tie-in loop is far lighter and more flexible.”

I’ve been using the Prisma Harness for a little under a year. It’s impressively light, low profile, well fitting and unlike many other super-light harnesses I’ve used – it seems incredibly durable.

Overall a great harness for sport climbing and alpine climbing. First day use on Piz Badile N Face

I’ve used this harness for sport climbing, alpine climbing and multipitch trad climbing and also ice and mixed climbing (it has ice clipper slots).

I can definitely attest to the comfort and fit of this harness. I am 175cm tall, weigh 67kg and have a 30 inch waist and the size small is perfect for me. I sometimes find that due to my chunky mountain guide’s legs, I have trouble getting the waist belt and leg loops to fit and will be in between sizes eg, small waist fits but I need medium leg loops. This is not the case on the Prisma and it all seems to be in proportion for me.

I really like the smoothness and ease of adjustment of the waist buckle. Also the tie in loop is low profile and flexible, as well as virtually seam-less. The final thing that I can’t leave out is the price! At €75, this is incredibly good value for money and it certainly isn’t at the cost of a reduction in quality.

It is as comfortable as I could ever expect from a harness like this. I mean, at 154g – it’s light!

The small gear loops were awkward and fiddly with a trad rack or a lot of quickdraws

Any downsides of this harness? Well, just one really. The gear loops. It has 4 gear loops, 2 on each side, both of which are well placed. However, they are annoyingly tiny, unless you have only a few clean nosed quickdraws (normal karabiners snag very easily). It seems a shame that it doesn’t have 4 slightly bigger, fatter gear loops which would mean racking and organising gear (even just a big rack of quickdraws) would be simple.

All in all a great product from Edelrid at a great price, slightly let down by tiny fiddly gear loops.

RRP: €75

Find out more and buy from the Edelrid Website

Kevin Avery is an IFMGA Mountain Guide based near Chamonix France. You can contact him for guiding at truenorthalpine@gmail.com and check his latest adventures on Instagram @truenorthalpine

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