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Rab promises that the Xenair Light is ‘active insulation you can put on and leave on…’ This promise of versatile, lightweight and compact insulation is something that several manufacturers have been pushing for the last decade. Up until now I was yet to be convinced, this may be the result of being UK based – let’s be honest we don’t often get those dry cold conditions! Damp and miserable cold absolutely! But cold enough to need insulation when working hard uphill or during more rapid aerobic pursuits is a rarity.
Rab’s Xenair Light is the first active insulation that I’ve been able to use even during some high output activities. It works as a super light, compact, warm and breathable fleece replacement whilst being more versatile in most circumstances.
Pros
- Light
- Warm
- Compact
- Fast drying
- Pretty breathable
- Versatile
Cons
- Not as stretchy as a fleece
The Xenair Light Jacket is the lightest of the Rab Xenair product range if you ignore the vest/gilet. At a feathery 270g this is both lighter and warmer than mid-weight fleeces such as Rab’s own Ascendor Pull-On etc. The insulation is fairly minimal consisting of 40gsm PrimaLoft® Gold Active+ protected by an outer layer of 20D Pertex® Quantum Air (with fluorocarbon-free DWR). A quick check of Rab’s ‘Material Facts’ sustainability breakdown shows 45% of the fabric content is recycled and entirely PFAS free. The insulation is also mapped so in areas where you generate more heat/sweat such as under the arms/arm pits there is no insulation improving breathability. There is an added benefit in that this also reduces bulk and improves move-ability. A nicely tailored design gives a close fitting jacket but with excellent articulation of the sleeves you get great freedom of movement and no hem lift. This makes the jacket perfect both as a mid layer as it doesn’t bulk up and bind your layering system or as an outer for active pursuits. Features wise there are two hand warmer pockets and a chest pocket placed very high on the inside left chest. This high placement helps stop the pocket ‘bagging’ out and down which is common with most lightweight jackets when anything of any weight is added to a chest pocket – especially if you unzip the jacket for venting. In use this works very well – there are limits but it’s the best solution I’ve used so far. As an added bonus you don’t have to unzip your shell jacket as far to access it – marginal gains! The chest pocket also acts as stuff sac for the jacket and incorporates a substantial clip loop if you need to fasten it to a harness. The cuffs are finished in a stretch material that incorporates a thumb slot. This gives a light covering over your palm but pulls the insulated material over the back of your hand which works exceptionally well for active use in cold conditions when you may be wearing relatively light gloves but it’s a bit chilly first thing out the hut – think summer alpine starts or winter ski touring. However like so many jackets these days it means that you can’t push the sleeves up to your elbow either for heat regulation or to get them away from damage when rock climbing. There is no hood though Rab do other Xenair versions such as the Xenair Alpine Light with a hood however the hoodless Xenair Light works well as a mid layer as you don’t end up with the whole multiple hood faff situation.
In use
I took this jacket to Norway for a couple of weeks XC skiing and Nordic touring and it proved exceptional. With a base layer and at times a Vapourise shell it coped with everything from skiing in damp white out clag around freezing to bluebird -14°C days as well as those chilly ‘first to arrive at the hut’ times whilst getting the stove lit. Being so light it dried super rapidly meaning I always started the day with dry kit from skin to shell. In fact for high output winter activities the combination of Xenair and Vapourise, with appropriate base layer(s) is pretty much perfect- you can comfortably cover a massive range of conditions and only need to resort to a hard shell in full on rain. At the end of the day when descending on winter runs it also proved an excellent choice providing enough insulation to keep a tired body warm without causing you to overheat.
During the summer it has worked as a perfect just in case layer for belays, lunch stops or just a cool evening walk back from the bar. Compared to the equivalent fleece the Xenair Light is more compact, warmer and more wind resistant. It can stuff into pretty much any corner of pack or even a decent sized waist pack. I think I’d still prefer a fleece for rock climbing duties as you can get the whole stretchy ease of movement feel plus the ability to role your sleeves up to the elbows. Durable though the lightweight fabrics of Xenair are they may would not survive continued abuse on abrasive rocks like granite but for everything else the Xenair Light is an outright winner
SRP £170
Disclaimer – CGR reviewers are never paid to provide a review and the website does not take advertising. We are a bunch of keen climbers and outdoor enthusiasts that accept sample products and offer an honest and independent review of the item. The reviewer will often keep the sample after reviewing it for both hygiene reasons and more often they’re in no fit state to return!
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