Arc’teryx Gamma Hoody Review: Versatile Outdoor Jacket

There’s a reason why the Gamma Hoody is iconic. We look at the super versatile soft-shell jacket from the masters of adventure wear: Arc’teryx.

Key Features:

• Windproof and water-resistant outer layer for protection against harsh weather conditions.
• Breathable and lightweight fabric that manages moisture during strenuous activities.
• Helmet-compatible hood and articulated sleeves for enhanced mobility and functionality.
• Durable construction with meticulous attention to detail for long-lasting performance.

Earlier in the season, we reviewed the excellent Arc’teryx Gamma Lightweight Jacket; we found that to be a great summer jacket, and with the late summer conditions we enjoyed in September, the jacket continued to get some use for those late summer hikes in The Lake District. With the weather turning more autumnal, it is now the turn of its much burlier sibling, the Arc’teryx Gamma Hoody (which was previously the Gamma LT), to get some outings.

The Arc’teryx Gamma Hoody has long been a staple in climbers’ and mountaineers’ kit bags. With its blend of durability, breathability, and weather resistance, it’s a versatile piece of gear that can handle a wide range of conditions. Let’s dive into the details to see if this softshell jacket lives up to the hype.

Construction and Materials

The Gamma Hoody is crafted from a proprietary fabric blend that strikes a delicate balance between protection and comfort. The outer layer is windproof and water-resistant, offering a shield against the elements without feeling overly restrictive. It is a woven soft shell as opposed to a membraned one, so it provides a good amount of wind protection and breathability. I run hot, so I find myself sweating when working hard uphill, but with a good choice of baselayer, it became manageable. I found a synthetic 1/4 zip base or light mid-layer that worked best, and I soon dried out when the angle eased. 

The jacket is warm, much warmer than the lightweight jacket, but if you do run cold or are planning serious winter adventures, then you may want to check out the iconic Gamma MX. The jacket has a great DWR that Arc’teryx is calling Arc’teryx Nu, this was great at shedding showers and performed OK in more persistent rain – it took about 20 minutes for the water to start seeping through.

The inner layer is soft and breathable, allowing moisture to escape during strenuous activities. The construction is impeccable, with meticulous stitching and well-placed seams that enhance durability and minimise bulk. It has all the premium construction detail you would expect from Arc’teryx, including a high stitch count, double stitching on all seams, bar tacking on all stress points and glove-friendly zip pulls. The main body zip has the outstanding  No Slip Zip, which seems to be exclusive to Arc’teryx because I haven’t come across it on any other make of jacket, and I always try them! It’s such a neat detail, subtle yet handy when needed.

Fit and Comfort

The Gamma Hoody boasts a trim, athletic fit that’s designed to move with you on the climb. The articulated sleeves and underarm gussets provide ample mobility, allowing for a full range of motion without feeling constricted. The hood is helmet-compatible and offers excellent coverage in inclement weather. I found the hood was superb when worn with a helmet, and you can tell that a lot of attention has gone into the design. It is easy to adjust and provides good articulation when looking up as well as laterally, and the stiffened peak provides some protection from rain. I liked the hood, and if you are a climber and/or mountaineer, then you will appreciate it. I have worn it with a cycling helmet and a hiking cap, and it has worked well with those, too.

The hood on the Arc’teryx Gamma Hoody is excellent, all fully adjustable to fit most helmet sizes and offering great articulation. The pockets are well situated for wearing with a harness.

Performance

The Gamma Hoody excels in a variety of climbing scenarios. Its windproof and water-resistant properties make it a reliable companion during alpine ascents and exposed routes. The breathable fabric effectively manages moisture, preventing overheating during long climbs. The jacket’s lightweight design (it weighed in at 535g on the trusty CGR scales) makes it easy to pack and carry, making it a valuable asset on multi-pitch routes and extended trips. The double hem cinch means that the bottom can be adjusted using either hand. 

There are three pockets: 2 large hand pockets that are positioned for use with a harness. These pockets are plenty big enough for stuffing gloves, maps and route descriptions in and have glove-friendly reverse coil zips. The linings are mesh to aid ventilation when on the move. There is also a zipped interior pocket; this is a little limited in size, and you are unlikely to fit a larger model in it. I use an iPhone SE 2020, and although it fitted in nicely naked, it would not fit with a fully protective case on. I think because of the mountaineering nature of the jacket, a larger, elasticated mesh pocket would work better, and I’m sure the great designers at Arc’teryx could improve on this. Many of us carry a phone in a chest pocket for photos and to check position, so it’s a pretty vital design feature on a modern outdoor jacket. 

Finally, the sleeves, when I reviewed the Gamma Lightweight Jacket earlier in the season, I noted Arc’teryx moving away from hook and loop cuff adjusters to semi-elasticated cuffs. I can understand the benefits of this as it adds a little more protection on the back of the hands, but the design assumes that everyone has the same arm length, which, of course, they don’t. I have had to fold the sleeves up a good two inches to get the arm length to fit, and with the way the sleeve is designed, it would be tricky for a tailor to adjust to fit. It would be good to return to hook and loop for both fit and to help with plunging and axe into deep snow. On a positive note, it does make getting the jacket on and off easier.

Great sleeve design means you can reach for those high holds with confidence.

Versatility

Beyond climbing, the Gamma Hoody is versatile enough to be used for other outdoor activities. It’s a great option for hiking, backpacking, and even commuting. The jacket’s stylish design and comfortable fit make it suitable for both casual and technical pursuits. The Gamma Hoody works very well for the cycling commute to either the office or the climbing gym, and the hood is excellent for this as it fits well over a cycling helmet on those showery days. Its wide range of colours, both muted and bright, means that you can wear it to the office without looking like you have just come off the mountain (unless that is the look you are promoting!). Finishing touches include an embroidered Archeopteryx bird logo on the chest and an Arc’teryx logo on the hood.

Conclusion

The Arc’teryx Gamma Hoody is a well-rounded softshell jacket that offers exceptional performance, durability, and versatility. Its combination of being windproof, water resistant, and breathability makes it a reliable choice for a wide range of outdoor activities. While the price tag may be steep for some, the quality and longevity of the Gamma Hoody make it a worthwhile investment for serious climbers and outdoor enthusiasts.

The Arc’teryx Gamma Hoody comes in 6 colour options and sizes XS-XXL. The female-specific version comes in 3 colour options and sizes XXS-XL.

The SRP is £280, and it can be bought directly from Arc’teryx UK, specialist retailers or the excellent London shop.

Disclosure – CGR reviewers and writers are never paid to provide a review and the website does not take advertising or link to affiliate sales. We are a bunch of keen climbers and travellers who accept sample products and offer an honest and independent review of the item.