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M10 is a mixed climbing grade involving technically demanding climbing, where the need for freedom of movement is paramount to success.
Alpinist Magazine cites: “M10: At least 10 metres of horizontal rock or 30 metres of overhanging dry tooling with powerful moves and no rests”
Sounds like physical sport climbing terrain, right? Except it’s more of a winter climbing endeavour! So to move well on terrain that technical, in the harsh alpine environment, you need clothing that keeps the elements sealed out but lets you move freely. Enter Patagonia’s new M10 shell range.
The M10 anorak isn’t actually a new Patagonia piece, it was in the range a few years ago, I had one, loved it and wore it to death. At the time I paired it with the Galvanized Pants (which I also loved and still have 2 pairs that I’m using to this day). Both pieces were dropped by Patagonia, but due to popular demand from the brand’s athletes – the M10 Anorak is back, alongside a full zip jacket version and a Men’s M10 trouser and Women’s M10 bib pant.
All these garments have just been released into the shops for autumn 2024 but I was lucky to receive early test samples at the beginning of the summer and can now share my initial thoughts on both the Men’s M10 Anorak and Men’s M10 Pants.
M10 Anorak
The M10 Anorak is a stripped down, lightweight, hardshell pullover designed for technical climbing. The key design brief here was freedom of movement, building a jacket that had excellent mobility in the shoulders and arms when climbing and that would ride up when your arms are stretched out above your head, reaching for that hold at your limit, making a wide span move, or swinging your ice tools pitch after pitch.
As not to keep you in suspense too long – Patagonia have nailed the overhead mobility in this thing. As designer and ambassador Kelly Cordes puts it, “You could literally play basketball in this trying and the hem wouldn’t ride up.”
I’ve spent a lot of mountain days in it this summer, rock climbing and alpine climbing and it’s simply great to climb in. The 3/4 length zip vents well but means there is no bulk under my harness. The hood is a perfect fit over a helmet, the zipper comes up to just above my chin and once the hood is up and cinched down, it doesn’t impede vision, movement or compress my neck. The simple elastic cuffs seal out the elements under or over glove cuffs, no Velcro tabs to faff with or freeze up. A simple drawcord seals the hem. There is a single chest pocket that’s easily accommodated a larger modern smartphone. Like I said, this is a stripped down, minimalist climbing shell – not a “man about town coat.”
One word about the fit. The sample Anorak actually feels a little bit difficult to get on. I’m 5ft9 and 68kg and wear Small in all Patagonia tops and jackets. Once on, the Small M10 feels great but the lower third (essentially the part that fits round your abs, waist and under your harness) feels tight to pull down over your upper body and even once on, doesn’t have tonnes of room for layers. I wear a base layer and Nano Air Light Hoody underneath and that feels perfect but I don’t think I could wear more layers under it. I brought this up with Patagonia and it sounds like this is more an issue with the sample run rather than the final production jackets – although low bulk around the waist and under the harness is definitely part of the design. They had this to say:
“Yes, the Anorak samples came in too small in the waist. It has a very specific cut for climbers – extra shoulder mobility, and prioritizing low bulk, and comfort under harness. Here is what our message about fit for the website says:
Built for alpine climbing, our slim-fit M10® Anorak is generous through the shoulders for mobility but has a tapered hem to fit well under a harness. The tapered hem can be snug when pulling on over your shoulders, so we suggest sizing up if you are between sizes.”
In terms of fabrics, the shell is produced using a nanoporous shell membrane without PFCs and PFAs and I’ve had no problems with the weather resistance or durability in an alpine environment (although not used it in Scottish rain!). It is a 3-layer H2No 2.7 oz 20 denier recycled nylon ripstop face fabric, which I initially had reservations about in terms of durability, but so far it hasn’t suffered even as much as a minor abrasion.
At 300g and built to follow the axiom “The more you know, the less you need” I’m really impressed with the new M10 and delighted it is back in the line-up. I’ll update this review with a few more specifics of how it goes in the autumn mixed climbing and winter waterfall ice climbing season. But, so far, so great!
Price: £400/€450
Full spec and buy at the Patagonia Website
M10 Pants
I’ve used these pants for mixed climbing, classic summer alpine and rock climbing over the last few months. They are size Small and fit perfectly. I am 5ft 9 tall and have a 30inch waist.
Patagonia say: “An ambassador-lead design innovation for moving fast and light in the harshest mountain conditions, these lightweight, supple, 3-layer waterproof pants are, in the words of Kelly Cordes, one of our pickiest product testers, “Hands down, easily, by a million miles, the best alpine pants I’ve ever worn.””
In terms of what these trousers were designed for, the brief was similar to the anorak and jacket. A hard shell trouser for technical alpine climbing with zero restriction to movement. The M10 trousers are incredibly simple (which I love), a lightweight fabric (H2No™ Performance Standard shell3-layer, 3.4-oz 30-denier ECONYL® 100% recycled nylon ripstop face with a slick jersey backer, a waterproof/breathable barrier and a durable water repellent (DWR) finish made without intentionally added PFAS), elasticated hems to cinch over your mountain boots with tie down loops so you can add bungy cord to keep them in place and stop snow getting in. There is one hip pocket, an elasticated waist and a diagonal fly zipper that gives easy access for pee stops whilst wearing a climbing harness.
Visually, compared to other trousers, the most striking thing is the design of the crotch gusset. Patagonia say: “Our ambassadors and design team worked together to develop the least restrictive hard-shell pants that any of our ambassadors have climbed in yet, with a unique 4-Point Gusset and knee articulation for total freedom of movement while high stepping or stemming.” This design is noticeable visually, but when you wear them, it’s even more apparent!
There is basically no restriction in movement when stepping high, or during the widest of bridging moves. These trousers have the best freedom of movement of any alpine climbing trouser I have worn, and better than quite a few pairs of standard rock climbing trousers too. And they’re waterproof, windproof and breathable. So far, they’re also relatively durable (weighing less than 300g per pair), although they’ve not yet tackled too many pitches of granite mixed climbing in the Mont Blanc Massif yet – so I’ll keep you updated on that one.
Price: £270/€320
Full spec and buy at the Patagonia Website
All in all I’m super psyched about the new M10 collection from Patagonia. It’s great to see innovation like this, designed to meet the needs of climbers rather than satisfy the high street consumer, and it’s even better to see it manifest itself in garments that are actually so light, simple and a pleasure to wear.
Kevin Avery is an IFMGA Mountain Guide based near Chamonix, France. You can check out what he’s up to on Instagram @kevinavery.mountainguide
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