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Ever wondered how you start winter mountaineering?
At CGR, we’re looking at the essential skills and equipment needed to bridge the gap between winter hillwalking and technical mountaineering. While winter walking keeps you on the tracks and broad ridges, winter mountaineering takes you onto steeper, more technical ground where the line between hiking and climbing begins to blur.
The Foundation: Skills for the Steeps
Transitioning into winter mountaineering in the UK requires more than just fitness; it requires a specific technical toolkit. If you’re a beginner looking to move beyond the plateau, you need a solid foundation in:
- Movement on Snow and Ice: Moving from “plodding” to “climbing.” This includes front-pointing with crampons and using an ice axe for more than just a walking aid.
- Ropework and Belaying: Once the ground gets steep (think Grade I or II winter gullies), you’ll need to understand basic snow anchors, rock protection, and how to move as a themed pair.
- Scrambling & Rock Competency: Proficiency in summer scrambling is a huge asset, as winter mountaineering often involves finding “mixed” holds under a layer of rime ice.
These skills are best developed through a mix of personal experience, progressive challenges, and professional winter mountaineering courses.
Essential Winter Mountaineering Gear
When you move from walking to mountaineering, your kit needs to be more robust. The “standard” hiking gear often won’t cut it on a technical ridge.
| Item | What to Look For |
| Boots | Transition to B2 rated boots. These have the stiffness required for secure crampon attachment and kicking steps into hard ice. |
| Crampons | Ensure a match for your boots (C2 crampons for B2 boots). Look for 12-point crampons for better security on steep ground. |
| Ice Axe | A slightly shorter, technical “mountain” axe (T-rated) is often better for steeper terrain than a long walking axe. |
| Protection | A climbing helmet is non-negotiable to protect against falling ice or rock. |
Managing Your Micro-Climate
In mountaineering, your pace changes. You might have a high-output “sweaty” hike to the base of a route, followed by long periods of standing still while belaying or pitching out a difficult section.
The Layering System is Key:
- The “Belay Jacket”: This is a thick, synthetic insulated jacket designed to be thrown over everything (even your waterproofs) the moment you stop moving.
- Performance Shells: Look for breathable, waterproof hardshells with a “helmet-compatible” hood and an athletic fit that doesn’t obscure your view of your feet.
Pro Tip: Carry a basic repair kit. Gaffer tape is a lifesaver—it can temporarily fix a torn jacket, a broken pole, or even tape a delaminating boot sole back together long enough to get you off the mountain.
Navigating the Risks
UK winter weather is notoriously fickle. Whiteout conditions can turn a simple exit into a survival situation.
- Avalanche Awareness: Many classic mountaineering lines follow gullies, which are natural collection points for wind-blown snow. Always check the Scottish Avalanche Information Service (SAIS) or local forecasts before heading out.
- Traditional Navigation: While GPS and mapping apps are great, batteries die in the cold. You must be proficient with a map and compass. In a winter whiteout, your compass is the only thing that won’t let you down.
- The “Turn Back” Mentality: The mountain will always be there. If the wind is too high, the ice is too thin, or the avalanche risk is “Considerable,” be prepared to change your plans.
Winter mountaineering is a physically demanding but deeply rewarding pursuit. It allows you to see the UK’s mountains at their most majestic and quiet. Start small, build your fitness, and consider hiring a guide to learn the ropes—literally.
The CGR team have been to the pub and had a great chat about winter mountain adventures and after a couple of pints have come up with some routes to get you started and develop your skills. All the routes mentioned feature in guidebooks to their repective areas – we strongly recommend you consult a guidebook as routes often change from one season to the next.
Lake District – an ideal playground to get you started. Easy access and plenty of aprés climb options make it a very popular winter venue.
Great End: Cust’s Gully I – super easy access from Seathwaite and reliable conditions mean that, if there is snow, you can be confident of a great day out. At the base of the crag head right (looking in) to the right hand side. The gully is identified by the massive chockstone arch you go under. Take the left branch for Cust’s. Perfect for honing your footwork with crampons. Continue over the summit and descend down the left hand side to the base of the crag.
Bowfell: North Gully I/II – another with straight forward access via Langdale. From the Old Dungeon Ghyll head up the Band to the levelling out. Look out for the cairn that takes you on the Climbers Traverse (easy to miss). Head underneath some mighty impressive rock scenery and home to some even more mighty winter climbs to the daddy of them all Bowfell Buttress. North Gully lies at the right hand side of the crag. A steep start (which can test your ice skills) leads to a snowy finish. This route can have snow in it when the rest of the crag is stripped bare – which makes it easy to identify from the valley.
North Wales – not as ideal as the Lakes but still, when it’s in condition it’s brilliant.
Carneddau Cwm Lloer: Broad Gully I/II – a decent approach from Ogwen via Glan Dena leads up the NE aspect of Pen y Ole Wen and into Cwm Lloer. Broad Gully runs up the left side of the Eastern Buttress. A steep start leads to a sustained snow gully. At the top head over to the summit of Pen yr Ole Wen and either descend the ridgeline or enjoy a classic round of the Carneddau. Awesome.
Yr Wyddfa: Clogwyn y Garnwedd (Trinity Face) Central Trinity I/II – a classic rite of passage for all winter mountaineers. Situated on the right of the summit with straightforward access from the Miners or Pyg Track the gully line is obvious and sits above the Spider snow field. There may be some short icy steps to negotiate which may need pitching but easier ground is soon reached. Race up the final snow field to swagger about on the summit in your kit before heading for a brew at the summit cafe. A total classic day out.
Scotland – where do we start! This is the culmination of all your skills and there is a lifetime’s worth of mountaineering adventures waiting for you. Be sure to be fully prepared and well skilled before you venture forth.
Northern Cairngorms: The Fiacaill Ridge II – a team favourite here at CGR. Flawless in all aspects from the easy approach via the Ski Centre car park to the interesting climbing that will hone your mixed climbing skills. It’s over all too quickly though, so head down the Goat Track and back to the car or better, climb Aladdin’s Couloir for a gully fix. It doesn’t come better.
Ben Nevis: Ledge Route II – there are no easy days on ‘The Ben’, you will need to be at your very best. Fitness and skill are required for success. We have chosen a classic day that should be achievable when you have developed your skills. Hiking up to the CIC Hut from The North Face carpark you will be looking up at the awesome Carn Dearg Buttress. Ledge Route winds its way up this from the left hand side at Number 5 Gully (a notoriously avalanche prone gully so be warned!). A short way up #5 Gully head right, up a ramp line and onto the route proper. You will need to have an accurate route description for this as you pass through some awe inspiring rock architecture and the route weaves about (see the SMC Scottish Winter Climbs guide). At the summit locate the main tourist path and head down to Red Burn sort out your mapwork and heather bash to the Alt an Mhullin and back to the car park. On a nice day head for the summit and then back to find the cairn of Number 4 Gully, you may need a rope to lower the first few metres then use your descending skills to an improving snow slope and back to the CIC hut (it may have a cornice but it usually has a cutting as it’s a popular descent for climbers).
We have tried to give you a flavour of several excellent mountain adventures but as a disclaimer winter mountaineering is very fickle and is unforgiving in nature. Be prepared, be fit and be skilled up. If anything feels wrong or the weather isn’t perfect – turn back and go for a walk. We can’t recommend the book Scotland’s Winter Mountains with one axe by Gary Smith highly enough, a beautiful and inspiring book and better than any app.
Looking for some the prefect kit for winter mountaineering? Well, we are the experts after all – check out our recommendations.
KLÄTTERMUSEN RÅ HOOD JACKET
Swedish boutique brand have been making high quality outdoor gear since 1975 and continue to make specialised clothing for artic adventures. The Rå Hood Jacket is a full weight belay jacket that is packed full of warmth and features for any weather gnarl winter can throw at you. Stuffed full of 130g of 700 Fill Power Re:down with 25g of Primaloft Silver padding, it’s rated for use between -10 to -21 ℃ so you can feel confident that if you ever feel cold the Rå Hood Jacket will heat you up in super quick time. The Primaloft helps the insulation dry out after being damp from gully spindrift and the reinforced shoulders, hood and arms also help shed spindrift as well as improve durability on what can be a delicate jacket with a PFAS free DWR it can shed snow like water off a duck’s back. Don’t think the Rå Hood Jacket skimps on features either – it’s packed full of them. Generous hand warmer pockets; a huge, zipped, inner pocket that doubles up as a stuff bag, two loops for clipping gloves to; press and magnetic stud closure for a secure storm flap and a generous, fully adjustable hood are just some of the quality features you would expect from a premium Swedish brand. Klättermusen has its own weather rating system and the Rå Hood Jacket sit high on the scale with a rating of 8 on both scales. The Klättermusen Rå Hood Jacket comes in sizes XS-XXL for men and XXS-XL for women. Both come in 4 colour option. It’s pricey at £450 but then again – how warm do you want to be?
The Klättermusen Rå Hood Jacket can be bought from Klättermusen UK or the London store.
OSPREY MUTANT 38
As you transition from hillwalking to winter mountaineering, your standard hiking pack might start to feel out of its depth. When you’re moving on steep ground or hauling a rope, crampons and axe, you need a pack that stays glued to your back. That’s where the Osprey Mutant 38 comes in.
The Mutant 38 is a robust, technical backpack specifically tailored for serious winter use. Unlike traditional walking packs, it features a relatively simple but highly effective back system using a reinforced Atilon framesheet with dual aluminum stays and EVA foam padding. This ensures a stable, close-to-the-body carry—essential when you’re balancing on crampon points or scrambling up a Grade II gully.
Where this pack really earns its badge is its array of alpine-ready features: gear attachments: It includes dedicated ice tool loops, a rope attachment system, and a helmet carry net. Adaptability: The lid is removable, and a weatherproof FlapJacket cover protects your gear when you want to go “stripped-back” for a technical summit push. Durability: Constructed from 210-denier recycled nylon with a PFC-free DWR finish, it’s built to survive scrapes against abrasive rime ice and rock.
While its 1141g weight might feel a touch high for minimalist purists, the functionality and “bombproof” build justify the weight for technical users.
The Osprey Mutant 38 comes in two, unisex, torso lengths (S/M and M/L) to ensure you get that crucial snug fit and two colour options. It costs £175 and can be bought from Osprey UK and specialist retailers.
PETZL SUMMIT EVO
As you move from the broad ridges of the Cairngorms into the steeper, more technical gullies of Scottish winter mountaineering, the limitations of a basic walking axe become clear. If you’re eyeing up Grade I/II winter climbing lines, you need a tool that offers more than just balance. The Petzl Summit EVO is a superb piolet designed precisely for this transition. The standout feature of the Summit EVO is its curved aluminum shaft. Unlike a straight walking axe, this ergonomic curve provides essential clearance on steep ground, protecting your knuckles from bruising and keeping your hands warmer and drier. When you’re “daggering” up technical snow slopes, this design provides significantly better leverage and hooking ability than traditional models. The hot-forged steel head is beautifully engineered, allowing for a thinner construction that penetrates hard ice and crust with ease. For those moments when you need to clear a stance or cut a quick step, the substantial adze features a sharp 45° cutting edge that makes short work of even the most stubborn Neve. At 420g (for the 59cm version), it is one of the heavier axes in its class, and at £160, it represents a significant investment. However, for mountaineers regularly tackling technical routes, the performance more than justifies the premium. It features a rubberized lower grip for security when swinging overhead and a pick angle that delivers smooth, reliable self-arrest performance.
While it might be overkill for a casual winter hillwalker, the Summit EVO is a superb choice for anyone serious about stepping up their game on technical terrain. The PETZL SUMMIT EVO cost £160 and can be bought from specialist retailers.
GRIVEL AIR TECH CRAMPONS
Transitioning from winter walking into mountaineering requires a significant step up in traction. While 10-point spikes suffice for gentle slopes, technical ground demands the security of aggressive front points for steep ice and mixed rock steps.
The Grivel Air Tech crampons are a bombproof, cro-moly steel 12-point crampon designed for exactly this transition. It is a versatile tool that can follow your progress from your first gully all the way to becoming a fully fledged Scottish winter climber. The Air Tech is available in three styles to match your footwear. The New Classic EVO fits most boots (including flexible B1s), while the hybrid Newmatic EVO—featuring a plastic toe bale and heel clip—is the ideal choice for B2 mountaineering boots. The Cramp-O-Matic EVO is reserved for rigid, full-on ice climbing boots. The soft Antibot footbed sheds snow to prevent “balling,” ensuring your crampons don’t lose their bite. We still recommend tapping your crampons regularly with your ice axe handle to keep them clear. The length is easily adjusted via a spring steel locator pin. Be sure to dial in the fit at home; you don’t want to be fumbling with adjustments with freezing hands on a windswept ridge. And the classic thread through buckles locks the crampons solidly for superlative confidence on all terrain.
The Grivel G12 crampons cost £135.95 Available directly from Grivel UK or specialist retailers.
AKU VIAZ DFS GTX Boots
Italian boot legends AKU have been specialising in lightweight mountaineering boots for over 100 years. The VIAZ DFS GTX is pretty much perfect for winter mountaineering: at 658g (per boot) it’s as lightweight as it gets for a B2 rated mountaineering boot. Stuffed full of super technical features such as the Dynamic Fit Technology that offers outstanding adaptability and fit for both the front of your foot as well as the heel so you can say goodbye to heel blisters. The lacing is a two part system with a modern sport shoe style locking lace on the front (which has a neat capture band which keeps it locked in place) and a conventional lacing at the ankle with riveted hooks. The upper is is made with AKU air8000 breathable mesh with welded PU reinforcing points at high stress areas and water resistance is provided by a full Gore-Tex lining. The VIAZ also has a full and solid rand which surrounds the entire boot and and provides support at the heel. Extra comfort at the heel is assured with a cut away, padded section which has extra cover to help lock warmth in and moisture out. The sole unit offers amazing stiffness with a 6-4mm nylon, carbon fibre and die cut EVA mix. This together with a high friction Vibram Litebase sole unit and a heel lip for New Matic style crampons means the AKU VIAZ DFS GTX is pretty much the ideal winter mountaineering boot.
The AKU VIAZ DFS GTX boots come in one colour and sizes UK7 – 12.5 in half sizes. SRP is £350 and they can be bought from AKU UK and specialist retailers.
JÖTTNAR MIDGARD HARDSHELL JACKET
The guys at Jöttnar should know a thing or two about extreme weather kit – they’re ex British Commandos after all. All those years of slogging through Norway, Sweden and Finland have created the knowledge required to know what is needed in cold weather clothing. The Jöttnar Midgard is their classic mountaineering offering and is perfect for winter mountaineering. Made using the tried and tested three layer Pertex Shield and a PFAS free DWR you can be sure to stay dry whether you’re shedding sweat on a steep gully or cowering under an overhang from gnarly spindrift the Midgard has your back.The cut is generous enough to accommodate layers without being bulky under a climbing harness. It’s stuffed full of useful mountaineering features – just as you would expect from Jöttnar – such as a 3 way adjustable hood which has a stiffened peak, generous two way pit zips, harness and pack friendly hand pockets and an internal, zipped, chest pocket. All exterior zips are YKK Aquacoil and the two way main body zip is also aqua coated. Many of the seams are welded to ensure as much surface area as possible is waterproof as well as sewn seams being taped. The Midgard is listed as Jöttnar’s technical alpine offering but it is an ideal winter mountaineering jacket: light, soft and easy to pack as well as deploy. Finishing touches include: velcro cuffs, embroidered Jöttnar logo and reflective logo at the back of the hood. All in a great, premium package. The Jöttnar Midgard Hardshell Jacket comes in two colour options and sizes S-XL for men. The SRP is £449 and it can be bought direct from Jöttnar UK.
RAB VAPOUR RISE SUMMIT JACKET
Rab’s iconic Vapour Rise jackets were soft shells before soft shells were a thing, and they continue to be the OG and one the best all mountain jackets you can buy. They have everything you would want for a fast moving day of mountaineering. Super breathable, reasonable water resistance and great features. The updated Summit jacket still operates on the same principles as Rab’s (yes actual Rab Carrington) original design of a micro fleece inner and a breathable Pertex outer because ‘if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. Of course Rab have innovated and shaved 100’s of grams off in weight by using state of the art Pertex Quantum Air outer which is breathable, which is coated with a PFAS free DWR to provide adequate water resistance for light snow and decent wind resistance. The brushed fleece lining offer amazing warmth and fast wicking for those gruelly steep Scottish slopes. The whole package works amazing well and that’s why they are popular with all mountain enthusiasts. It has all the features you would want in a mountain shell with a three way adjustable and helmet friendly hood which has a wired peak; hook and loop cuffs, adjustable hem, two harness and pack friendly hand pockets and a generous chest pocket. High quality YKK zips finish it off and there are some nice reflective logos so your partner can see where you are on those dark winter finishes. All this in a lightweight 350g package which most standard hardshell would be hard to beat.
The Rab Vapour Rise Summit comes in three colour choices and sizes S-XXL for men and UK8-16 for women. The SRP is £195 and it can be bought from Rab UK or specialist retailers.
ARC’TERYX VENTA GTX GLOVES
Gloves are an essential item that can make or break your day and an area you don’t want to skimp on. You can often muddle through with inadequate layers or a cheap hardshell but poor gloves can make you pretty miserable very quickly. That’s where the Arc’teryx Venta GTX gloves come in. The Venta range are specifically designed for hiking and are the softest, most pliable gloves we have used for a long time. That doesn’t mean to say they are delicate, these beasts are super tough with a high quality goat leather palm and tips that can take the abuse of coping with rock moves and handling an ice axe while offering supreme confidence that they aren’t going to fall apart at the first sign of a long rock scramble. The outer is Bluesign approved, double weave nylon mix that has a small amount of elastane for extra flexibility. There is also a PFAS compliant DWR as well as a ePE GoreTex liner to help keep fingers and hand dry when plugging into snow or when snow turn to rain. The articulated, curved fingers help make the glove super useable for fiddly jobs such as using a compass and no more messing about with zips on your jacket with the amazing dexterity the Venta GTX Glove offers. As you would expect from a premium brand such as Arc’teryx the gloves have some great finishing touches including embroidered Bird logo, elasticated wrists and hook and loop fastenings to keep the heat trapped in. A lovely brushed fleece inner keeper everything cosy and when the gloves need drying then there is a large wrist loop or smaller finger loop for hanging up in the drying room.
The Arc’teryx Venta GTX Glove come is sizes XS-XXL and three colour options. The SRP is £140 and they can be bought direct from Arc’teryx UK.
HELLY HANSEN VERGLAS TUR TROUSERS 2.0
When winter mountaineering, your choice of legwear becomes a critical piece of the safety and comfort puzzle. The Helly Hansen Verglas Tur Pants 2.0 are a standout for this transition, striking a perfect balance between the comfortable flex of a trekking pant and the ruggedness required for longer winter days. These regular-fit pants are constructed from a blend of durable and stretchy fabric designed to keep you comfortable and dry as the weather shifts unpredictably on the trails. Durability is a core focus here, with significant reinforcements added to the seat, knees, and—most importantly—the insteps to protect against sharp rock abrasion or the occasional stray crampon point. Mountaineering demands high-output movement followed by static periods, a dynamic these pants handle through a gusseted crotch for unrestricted high-stepping and back-thigh ventilation zippers to dump heat during steep, sweaty approaches. Beyond movement, the Verglas Tur Trousers feature open hand pockets and zippered thigh pockets for secure, accessible storage of small essentials like snacks or a compass. For those venturing into deep snow-covered terrain, the hidden boot hooks and adjustable bottom hem are very useful, effectively acting as an integrated gaiter to keep powder and debris out of your boots. Safety is further enhanced by the inclusion of a RECCO strip, improving your searchability for rescue teams in a mountain emergency. Finally, the adjustable waist and integrated webbing loops for accessories ensure a secure fit for the most demanding winter missions in the high hills.
The Helly Hansen Verglas Tur Trousers 2.0 come in sizes S-2XL and 3 colour ways for men. For women they offer XS-XL and one colour option. The SRP is £160 and they can be bought from Helly Hansen UK.
KOMPERDELL CARBON C2 ULTRALIGHT POLES
Poles, love ‘em or hate ‘em sooner or later you’ll be using them. We here at GCR are real fans, poles make travel over snowy and icy ground more stable and they spread the load throughout the body. Poles are an essential winter mountaineering and Austrian brand Komperdell are experts. They make poles for all mountain sports from trekking to skiing and all Nordic winter events. The C2 Ultralight are a premium choice utilising high quality, ultralight, carbon fibre and ergonomic hand grips to provide rock-solid stability and minimise hand fatigue during long, technical mountain days. The two section, tapered poles are locked in place using the aluminium Powerlock 3.0 that Komperdell boast is their strongest lock yet. Flicklock poles offer superior locking and easier operation than twist lock poles and the Powerlock 3.0 delivers a zero slip adjustment. The adjustment is between 110 – 140cms so should accommodate most body lengths and the two section design makes it easy to get the correct height for you. The Touring Foam 280 grip delivers excellent grip with gloves and the extended handle means you can move your hand down with readjusting – for example when you have a pole upslope and you ice axe down slope. Wrists can be locked in please with the one pull webbed strap. The C2 Ultralight also has the excellent, moving ice flex, basket which means the supplied snow baskets will take the shape of the slope when ascending or design – very neat. All premium quality and made in Austria so these poles should last a lifetime – in the unlikely event that something might happen to them then you can sleep easy with the 3 year no quibble service and repair service.
The Komperdell C2 Ultralight poles come in one size, two colour options. The SRP is £169.95 and they can be purchased from Komperdell Europe.
BLACK DIAMOND DISTANCE SL HEADLAMP
Only a fool would go out on a winter adventure without a headtorch, no seriously, not packing a headtorch puts you in real danger when the inevitable happens and you get caught out by the encroaching darkness. It makes sense, then, to invest in a quality headtorch and the Black Diamond Distance LT is a premium investment that will last you a lifetime of adventures. Packed full of useful features it has a powerful beam, offering 1100 lumens of power when you need it most. The beam has three settings for a full spread of activities: 7 lumens with a burn time of 120 hours for messing around the campsite or looking for your socks in the bothy; 300 lumens and a burn time of 14 hours which is more than enough to get you back to the car from the summit and 600 lumens of high power and 4.25 hours burn time for highlighting the way ahead. There is also a red LED for close map work or being polite around the hut. One of the great features of BD headlamps is the Powertap button on the side that when tapped delivered max power 1100 lumens for 10 seconds, just remember to point it away from your mates face or you won’t be popular! The USB-C rechargeable 2200mAh battery will last most of the day and you can buy a spare for £30 so you can be confident of not running out of power. The tilting head and comfortable headband finish things off nicely and it comes in a nice storage bag. All this in a packable 108g, there is absolutely no excuse not to leave the house without it.
The Black Diamond Distance LT Headlamp costs £100 and the spare battery costs £30. IT can be bought directly from Black Diamond Europe and specialist retailers.
Disclosure – CGR reviewers and writers are never paid to provide a review and the website does not take advertising or link to affiliate sales. We are a bunch of keen climbers and travellers who accept sample products and offer an honest and independent review of the item.
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