So does Montane’s Flux Jacket tick all of these boxes? In short, yes it pretty much does. It has velcro adjustable cuffs, a baffled two way zip, and two big zippered handwarmer pockets one of which doubles as a stuff sack but unfortunately there is no clip loop to allow you to clip it to your harness. It also features two zippered chest pockets though there are no internal mesh pockets which is a shame, as I find this simple feature very useful for stashing spare gloves etc and allowing them to dry. All the zippers feature zip tabs though which mean they can be operated smoothly whilst wearing gloves. All in all storage space is plentiful and getting the jacket on and off is easy.

In terms of cut and size I found the Flux jacket to be generally excellent. My test jacket was a size medium which fitted nicely over the top of all of my other layers but didn’t flap about in the wrong places if it actually came to climbing in it. The only thing I’d change was the neck.

So, does the Flux Jacket provide decent cold weather protection? The microlight Pertex outer is windproof and coupled with a DWR finish, repels light moisture well. It dries quickly when damp and is also proving to be quite tough. The layered 60g/40g Primaloft synthetic insulation provides great warmth for it’s weight. I was a little confused regarding the layout of the insulation so I asked Montane to explain things further:

“The arrangement of 60g and 40g is as follows:
· 60g in the back
· 60g in the crown of the hood
· 40g in the sides of the hood

· 60g in the arms
· 40g in the cuff area

· 2 layers of 40g in the chest area, meaning that the front pockets are encased between these layers.”

The idea is that the thicker insulation is sited in key areas where warmth is needed most, such as the core and the lighter insulation is used elsewhere. This works really well and gives a jacket that is warm, pretty light and offers excellent mobility when on the move.

It’s not as warm as say a Patagonia DAS Parka, but then again with the Flux weighing in at 540g for a Medium, the DAS Parka is 250g heavier. Having used the Flux jacket as a belay jacket this winter in both Scotland and on day routes in the Alps I have found it to provide more than enough warmth. It certainly sits happily alongside other synthetic belay jackets of a similar spec such as The North Face Redpoint Optimus or RAB Generator Alpine jacket, providing a good level of warmth to weight. If I was going to be spending nights bivvying in the Alps in winter however, then maybe I’d opt for something warmer (and probably filled with down).

So, in conclusion the Flux Jacket is a well featured, good quality belay jacket ideal for UK winter climbing, Alpine day routes and UK cragging. The length is good, as is the general cut. I like the hood and pocket configuration but would like to see a redesign on the neck as well as the addition of a couple of internal mesh pockets.

• For further information visit www.montane.co.uk
• For stockist information visit the Montane Dealer page