Winter Conditions Report Ben Nevis, Glen Coe, Ben Udlaidh 15th-17th February

 Mountain Hardwear LogoThe CGR Winter Conditions Blog is kindly supported by Mountain Hardwear

The busy February half term weekend saw the CGR team plus Bruce heading for some #scotwinter action with a bit of a mixed forecast.

Stob Coire nan Lochan
Stob Coire nan Lochan – spot the hoar frost line.
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Bruce topping out on Crest Route

Sunday found us in Stob Coire nan Lochan with the freezing level just above the base of the coire, you could clearly see the line of hoar frost on the buttresses but they were a bit black lowdown We opted for Crest Route which was in excellent nick on the upper two pitches if a little less frozen on the broken ground low down.

Creag Coire na Ciste
Creag Coire na Ciste

Monday was to be a day on the Ben with a warming forecast. Classic Scottish winter conditions of drizzle/rain on the walk up followed by snow by the time we arrived at the CIC. We opted to climb high in Coire na Ciste, Central Gully Right Hand was the route of choice and it was in good fat condition. In fact most of the ice routes we could see were in great nick with a veritable party going on on Mega Route X! The snow slope below Central Gully felt a little dodgy and descending No 4 Gully the slope felt a bit loaded.

Ben Feb 15th 008
Teams on Mega Route X
Ben Udlaih
Ben Udlaih – that blue sky was a trick!
Ben Feb 15th 012
Rain and thaw on Quartvien Scoop

A worsening forecast saw us heading home on the Tuesday with a quick stop at Ben Udlaidh on the way. Although there was plenty of ice about it began to rain in earnest once I’d embarked on Quartzvien Scoop and together with the thawing conditions (and falling ice) retreat from the peg on the first pitch was the order of the day. Hopefully the thaw won’t strip too much ice as Captain Hook, Peter Pan etc all looked pretty well formed.

Thanks to Mountain Hardwear for supporting the CGR winter conditions blog – take a look at their Mountaineering and Alpine climbing range ideal for winter conditions!

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