Scarpa Generator Mid Climbing Shoe Review 2023

They might look old school, but the new Generator Mid is designed for long multi-pitch days and is stuffed full of modern features.

PROS

• Very comfortable
• Great ankle protection
• High-quality manufacture and materials

Cons

• Stiff
• Take a bit of wearing in.

I still remember buying my first pair of climbing boots (climbing shoes hadn’t been invented then!) – a pair of Galibier Contacts. I wore them with pride and they were a huge step forward from the black PE plimsolls I’d been wearing the previous year (I had to save up for two months to buy them). I have so many fond memories of adventures in those boots that I was delighted when a pair of the new Scarpa Generator Mid boots arrived for testing. 

As I’ve aged and adapted my climbing style I now opt for comfort over performance and regular readers would know that with the style of shoes, I test. The Generator Mid are well suited for those climbers who value comfort, especially on long days out when the shoes generally stay on all day. The Generator Mid has been designed especially for long multi-pitch days out – think Alpine Rock, UK Trad or long multi-pitch bolted routes in Europe (or elsewhere for that matter).

Perfect for long trad days out. The Mid style boot gave excellent support.

Of course, those who prefer a shoe can still gain the benefits of the Generator style as there is a shoe version. So, why a boot (or Mid as they like to say these days)? Well, better ankle protection and support is the main reason. Many big multi-pitch routes will involve some sort of crack climbing and general off-width thrutching (well, they do at the grade I’m climbing these days) so having that extra bit of ankle protection is very welcome. The 2.0mm ECO Suede uppers are an important element of that protection, which is burly and much more durable than microfibre. The ECO suede utilises the recovered waste material from production scraps, a great feature.

Added protection also comes from the padding around the ankle, this also has a synthetic liner that improves the warmth on those cooler days. That, coupled with, the padded synthetic tongue helps make the Generator Mid one of my most comfortable climbing shoes for all-day wear. Although I don’t work as a Mountaineering Instructor anymore, I help and volunteer for some activities. On a recent day out in Langdale, I was working with three members of my Climbing Club, helping them improve their multi-pitch skills. I was in the boots all day including the complicated abseil descent and never felt I needed to take them off. I would, however, like to see some added traction to the heel in any future update as that would have helped on wet grass and mud.

The Vibram XS Edge rubber offers great friction and is hard wearing.

The toe profile is built for comfort so should accommodate a wide variety of foot shapes. It feels similar to the Maestro shoes I reviewed a couple of years back. A well sized and covers the entire toe area so crack climbing wasn’t a problem (although there were a bit stiff for toe jamming) and it is split at the big toe to offer some expansion in hotter conditions. There is also a good covering of heel rand, so if you find yourself confronted by a heel hoot move on pitch 10 you should be able to execute it (with some deep breaths and anxiety control!). Tension around the heel is supplied with using the Scarpa PAF system which should be familiar if you use Scarpa climbing shoes. There is also some extra support at the arch with the Tri Tension system. All very complicated sounding but it works well and offers great support. Finishing touches include two heel tabs, quality lacing and excellent ‘Made in Italy’ manufacturing.

Finally, the Generator Mid is a stiff boot, I’ve worn them a few times now and I still don’t feel like I’ve worn them in yet. That stiffness means you lose a little sensitivity but for the type of climbing I’ve been using them for that hasn’t mattered. If you’re planning a multi-pitch 8b then these may not be you. But for intermediate Alpine use, they are perfectly fine. The rubber is Vibram XS Edge, developed specifically for edging and the same as for the Maestro and Vapour. More durable than softer compounds so it will last longer. The soles are suitable for the excellent Scarpa resole service (which is more like a refurbishment) so I’m expecting these to last many more years of adventure yet. 

The Scarpa Generator Mid comes in sizes EUR 39 – 46 in half sizes.

The SRP is £170 and they can be bought directly from Scarpa UK

Disclaimer – CGR reviewers and writers are never paid to provide a review and the website does not take advertising or link to affiliate sales. We are a bunch of keen climbers and travellers that accept sample products and offer an honest and independent review of the item.