Scarpa Origin VS Review 2024

The new, indoor climbing specific shoe for beginners and intermediate climbers is spot on and suitable for outdoor climbing too.

PROS

• Comfortable
• Well priced
• Suit a variety of foot shapes

CONS

• Can lack precision in the toe
• The microfibre upper can feel hot on warm days.

I’ve lost count of the variety of climbing shoes I have used over the years, I’ve also reviewed and used a fair number of Scarpa shoes and I go back as far as being sponsored by them (not that that influences my review). 

The last pair of indoor-specific shoes we featured here on CGR were the excellent Veloce shoes – I found these amazing and I finally wore them out. They were a very technical shoe suited to the more experienced end of the market, the Scarpa Origin VS shoes fill a neat gap in the range.

The Origin VS are a newer version of the Origin shoes that are available in the US, they have been redesigned to offer a streamlined package more suited to indoor climbing. Comfort for extended periods is the aim here and the Origin VS didn’t disappoint, the Origin shoe is designed for all-day comfort and so is the Origin VS, put them on at the beginning of your session and they can stay on until the end, you couldn’t do that with the Veloce or many other climbing shoes.

Of course the fit is crucial here, I tested a size UK 8, which is my standard approach shoe size. The idea is that I can wear them for long periods. I would normally wear my climbing shoes in a size UK7.5 for a more precise fit and there has been compromise here. The size UK8 has felt less precise on more technical climbs, that’s not to say they lack total precision. I have been perfectly happy with the ability of the shoe to heel and toe hook thanks to the full rand across the toe area and heel. The way the sole has been extended up on the heel means that; I feel, it would come off on technical heel hooks outdoors. But for indoor heel hooking it has been fine and I’m not expecting to use them much for outdoor climbing. 

The PAF heel system works well and holds the heel in place without any sliding around. I have been recovering from a nasty Achilles tendon injury I picked up in late 2022 so the PAF system has been a godsend and the Origin VS has been the only shoe I have been able to wear for long periods and I have been using them for outdoor climbing for this reason too.

The flat last also offers superior comfort and the toe profile is wide enough to accommodate a variety of foot shapes (I would recommend trying a pair on in a store – or even better wait for a Scarpa boot demo at your local climbing gym) except maybe very wide feet and there are plenty of sizing options available. The soft rubber toe area has a full rand and so will help retain its shape and the microfibre upper helps too – being less stretchy than suede. Tightness can be refined using the single hook and loop strap and a sliver of elastic. Overall I have found the fit good (remember I have sized them up a half size to my usual fit), although they can lack a little precision on those smaller footholds and smears.

The Origin VS can cope with small holds and smears when needed.

Talking of smears, the S72 rubber has great friction, more than enough for smears and slab work. The rubber is a durable compound developed by Scarpa and although not as sticky and soft as the M50 rubber it is much more suited to beginner/intermediate shoes. It has performed well in outdoor bouldering too and the thickness means that it should last a couple of seasons of regular use. The sole unit can be resoled using the excellent Scarpa refurbishing service so the shoe should last many years with careful use.

Finishing touches include a mesh-style padded tongue, single hook and loop tensioning strap and two heel loops to help get the shoes on and hanging from a harness/pack. 

So, to conclude the Scarpa Origin VS are a great and easy-to-wear climbing shoe, perfectly comfortable to wear all day long both for indoor and outdoor climbing. the rubber has good friction and the toe profile should shut a wide variety of foot shapes whilst offering reasonable precision for intricate footwear.

The Scarpa Origin VS come in sizes EU 40-46 and a single colour way. The SRP is £110 and they can be bought directly from Scarpa UK and specialist retailers. There is also a female-specific version the Origin VS WMN which comes in sizes EU 34 to 42 and is the same price.

Disclosure – CGR reviewers and writers are never paid to provide a review and the website does not take advertising or link to affiliate sales. We are a bunch of keen climbers and travellers who accept sample products and offer an honest and independent review of the item.