Jöttnar Floyen LX Review

The Jöttnar Floyen LX is a super versatile lightweight synthetic jacket that will work for multi pitch alpine rock climbs through to layering for Scottish winter, a truly ‘Goldilocks’ insulation piece.

Last winter I reviewed Jöttnar’s Floyen HS and was suitably impressed with what proved to be an über warm mid-layer. In fact it was too warm for active use in Scotland to my way of thinking. No sooner had I finished the review than Jöttnar released the Floyen LX designed more with spring/summer conditions in mind.

Essentially the Floyen LX is the same jacket as the Floyen but with 40gsm rather than 100gsm Thermolite® insulation and the Polartec® Wind Pro® fleece has been lost from the side panels. All in these changes save around 110g weight wise with the Floyen LX coming in at 327g for my mens small and even more compressible. The Floyen LX is only available in a hooded version. The lighter weight fill means the Floyen LX compresses even better than the original Floyen, in fact you can stuff it just about anywhere in a sac. Frequently I would add it to what seemed like an already full alpine or trad sac and it could be easily tucked down the front or side without any stress. By way of comparison I stuffed it into an original Arcteryx Nuclei FL stuff sac and it fitted with ease. One possible improvement for the Floyen LX would be a stuff-able pocket or included stuff sac so that it could be easily clipped to your harness as it makes a great ‘carry along’ piece on multi-pitch routes.

The 51gsm micro ripstop shell provides a degree of wind-proofing but is air permeable and as with the Floyen you’d probably want a shell over the top if out in a hoolie. This face fabric seems robust for its weight – despite frequent abuse, including the aforementioned stuffing into full sacs, I have yet to find a single hole.

In Use
Having used the Floyen LX over the spring and summer both in the UK and then later in the alps I feel it is superior to the Floyen. This is not due to any design differences beyond the lighter fill weight, it’s just that this version is for me the ‘Goldilocks’ weight for a mid-layer synthetic fill jacket. I’ve not used it in winter yet but I suspect that I’ll get more use out of the Floyen LX than the Floyen in Scotland and, if I manage to get any cascade climbing in, in Europe.

Warmth wise you get something akin to a heavyweight fleece but without the weight and with more wind resistance and greater compressibility. The cut is typical Jöttnar, plenty of room for layers and generous in arm length and rear hem. The pocket arrangement is the same as the Floyen but I did find the outer chest pocket a little more subject to ‘pulling or gapping’ the front of the jacket when the jacket is loaded with a large phone. Many companies omit the chest pocket on lighter jackets for this very reason but I’d rather have the option there, after all you don’t have to use it! With the increased popularity of ‘max’ sized phones or ‘phablets’ for their battery life and legibility, especially when being used as a navigation aid, there is certainly scope for some clever pocket design and or placement that could get rid of the pocket sag issue. Perhaps the inside pocket might benefit from being on the opposite side of the chest to balance things a little? Then you could have phone on one side and food/map/compass/topo etc. on the other. Perhaps locating the inside phone pocket a little lower but then you risk interference with a harness waist belt? This is not a criticism of Jöttnar but an observation on changing technology and its impact on pockets, now there’s a future Mastermind topic if ever there were one! Stuffed into a small stuff sac the Floyen LX is easily carried on a harness and provides welcome warmth on summer and Autumn belays. The cut is plenty roomy enough for climbing so there is no impediment to arm lift or coming untucked from a harness though the lower edge of the pockets are just covered by the waist belt. The simple elasticated cuffs work well but as with the Floyen a bit more room to allow you to push the sleeves up to your elbow would be welcome – this is just possible but it’s snug!

One thing still missing from Jöttnar’s website as far as I can tell is any information regarding ethical and environmental policy. They do use RDS down but there is no statement beyond that. It may be that this is a work in progress but with increasingly ethical and environmentally conscious consumers this lack may start to cost Jöttnar customers which is a shame as their products are extremely durable and effective – I’m still using a Bergelmir Jacket that I reviewed back in 2018!

Overall this is a very versatile jacket and if you’re looking for a jacket from the Floyen range to do just about anything this would be my choice. It is my go to jacket to stuff in my sport climbing pack for belay duty and sitting about between routes, it works as a light belay jacket on multi-pitch alpine or trad and can be worn when climbing, finally I’m looking forward to using it in winter as a warm but not too warm mid-layer that will stuff easily into a pack.

Pros

• Lightweight
• Compressible – small packed size
• Versatile level of warmth
• Durable

Cons

• Could do with an included stuff sac or stuff-able pocket

SRP £225

Stockists

Disclaimer – CGR reviewers are never paid to provide a review and the website does not take advertising. We are a bunch of keen climbers and travellers that accept sample products and offer an honest and independent review of the item. The reviewer will often keep the sample after reviewing it for both hygiene reasons and more often they’re in no fit state to return!