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This Spring Patagonia have released their Free Wall Kit. A range of clothing aimed at big wall free climbing, but just as suited to UK mountain trad and cragging, as it is to El Cap or the Grand Cap.
About the Free Wall Kit Patagonia say:
“Designed to meet the demands of our ambassadors’ evolving tactics for cutting-edge multipitch objectives, the Free Wall Kit prioritizes protection and recovery so you can focus on performance. As athletes use advanced techniques and gear like fix and follow and ultralight portaledges to free climb big walls, what were once multiday excursions are becoming ambitious, done-in-a-day pushes. Patagonia’s new Free Wall Kit brings this ethic of high-quality rest and efficiency to your clothing and pack system, ensuring optimal on-route recovery for limitless climbing.”
What we’re talking about here is a modular clothing system designed to meet the needs of multipitch (be that 3 pitches or 33!) rock climbers, whether you’re trad climbing on Gogarth, running it out on the limestone “gouttes d’eau” of the Verdon Gorge or doing battle with the granite cracks of the Petit Clocher du Portalet.
Tough trousers, a pullover hooded “hard face” fleece, windproof pullover and pants and a down jacket that you don’t have to worry about snagging on sharp granite and spilling feathers everywhere. There’s also a pack.
Here at CGR we were lucky to get an early look at both the men’s and women’s styles and in this piece we’re going to share our initial thoughts about the range, with more in depth reviews to follow in the coming months.
Kirsty Pallas, a Scottish based Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor went to a special press event on our behalf last October so we’re lucky to have her perspective from a female point of view. And Kev has been testing out a few of the pieces during his Spring climbs in the Alps, so all in all we have a really good feel for the kit already.
Patagonia Durable Down Parka (men’s and women’s)
“For committing climbs that require rugged insulation, the Durable Down Parka is a lofty and warm 800-fill-power down belay jacket with a two-way zipper that won’t get shredded by rock abrasion. Using materials found in our Workwear gear, it’s tough enough to withstand the burliest pitches yet light enough to haul up the longest routes. This parka is part of the Free Wall Kit. Designed to meet the demands of our ambassadors’ evolving tactics for modern rock climbing objectives, the Free Wall Kit is made for sustained, difficult multipitch routes where even the smallest rest recovers just enough energy for the send. Made in a Fair Trade Certified™ factory.”
Kirsty Says:
While the other items in the Free Wall range are lightweight and a slim fit, this jacket is the opposite (but still does exactly what it needs to do). With its 800 fill power down, it’s one of the warmest jackets around but has still been designed with performance climbing in mind. Elasticated cuffs, hem and hood, keeps the cold and wind out, while still allowing freedom of movement and a helmet to be worn. Two cosy hand pockets are great for keeping your digits warm and ready, and then a further two “drop-in” mesh pockets inside are great for things like climbing shoes. It packs into its own pocket for carrying, although it’s never going to pack super small for the warmth it’s giving. The two way zip combined with a popper allows belaying and being attached to the rope, while still fully tucked into the jacket.
Price: £575/€650
Patagonia Houdini Rock Jacket (men’s and women’s)
Patagonia say:
“We made our iconic Houdini Jacket into the ultimate climbing anorak, engineered specifically for multipitch rock climbing. The wind- and weather-resistant Houdini Rock Jacket has unique overhead mobility and a long, slim-fit waist that stays put under a harness. This climbing jacket is part of the Free Wall Kit. Designed to meet the demands of our ambassadors’ evolving tactics for modern rock climbing objectives, the Free Wall Kit is made for sustained, difficult multipitch routes where even the smallest rest recovers just enough energy for the send. Made in a Fair Trade Certified™ factory.”
Kirsty says:
Another very lightweight piece in the collection, this windproof layer fits easily over the R1 Ultralight fleece
and slips under a harness, so it’s easy to not notice you have it on. Packing into its own pocket, it feels “barely there” clipped onto the back of a harness but makes a surprising difference once worn. The helmet compatible hood is adjustable and can be tightened up, as can the hem. The cuffs are elasticated meaning that climbing with it on is still very easy. A deep chest zip, matching the fleece, gives good venting options and allows the jacket to be taken off and put on over a helmet. The ripstop fabric has a water repellent finish giving some protection from the odd passing shower.
Kev says:
The regular Houdini Jacket was always a favourite of mine for a variety of mountain pursuits, from trail running to alpinism. And was nearly always attached to my harness on multipitch rock climbs. Whilst it was ok for climbing, I always wished it had a more climbing specific cut, bigger chest pocket and a helmet compatible hood. It seems like someone was listening. The Houdini Rock Jacket has all those things, and has taken it a step further with a pullover style which means things stay clean around the harness line. The zip is deep enough to allow it to be easily put on and off over a helmet as well as offer serious venting opportunities. The hood goes over even the biggest climbing helmets and doesn’t impede you looking up and the general cut allows excellent freedom of movement when climbing. The chest pocket is bigger, but still not quite big enough for my IPhone 17Pro Max, however most standard sized smartphones fit in there no problem. You get all of these additional feature for just 25g more than the standard Houdini (130g compared to 105g).
Price: £180/€200
Patagonia R1 Ultralight Hoody (men’s and women’s)
Patagonia say:
“The warm and breathable R1® Ultralight Hoody is a technical fleece and a big-wall essential for pro athletes and dedicated climbers alike. It’s almost as light as your favorite baselayer, with a smooth, abrasion-resistant face fabric you won’t have to worry about shredding on the sharp end. This fleece is part of the Free Wall Kit. Designed to meet the demands of our ambassadors’ evolving tactics for modern rock climbing objectives, the Free Wall Kit is made for sustained, difficult multipitch routes where even the smallest rest recovers just enough energy for the send. Made in a Fair Trade Certified™ factory.”
Kirsty says:
Continuing with the very successful R1 range, this latest addition is cosy and light. The brushed inside is soft against your skin but also slides easily over a baselayer, while the outer a much closer knit and is resistant to snagging. A deep chest zip provides plenty of ventilation opportunities, and also enough space to easily put it on or take it off over a helmet. Two chest pockets mean you can carry and keep little things handy, (like a phone or snacks), but without too much bulk. The overall fit is snug, but with well thought out panels, there’s still ease of movement and it doesn’t feel restrictive. A slimline hood fits close for wearing under a helmet, and this also helps with overall warmth.
Kev says:
The classic R1 Hoody is something I’ve used a lot, sometimes as a cold weather base layer and sometimes as a mid/outer layer. It’s super versatile and great on the rock. This new incarnation, the R1 Ultralight Hoody, feels lighter (is it though?), is smooth against the skin and slides over a Capilene Cool T or similar, very easily. having climbed quite a few pitches in it now, the main thing I’ve noticed is that I don’t really notice it at all! Which means it’s great in my book. The hood is cosy under a helmet, the 3/4 zip vents well and like the Houdini, means you can put it on whilst wearing your helmet. The chest pockets are big (even big enough for the 17 Pro Max!) and the outer “hard face” fabric is proving to be as tough as old boots. Oh and my earlier question about the weight, yes at 280g it’s lighter than the classic R1 Hoody, but only by 9g I hear you say. But when we’re talking about gear weight, remember these 2 important rules. Ounces add up to pounds, and pounds mean pain! And the only thing that actually weighs “nothing” is nothing.
Price: £180/€200
Patagonia Free Wall Pants (men’s and women’s)
Patagonia say:
“With the perfect combination of stretch and durability along with design features for all-day comfort in a harness, the Free Wall Pants are the lightweight, rugged and streamlined solution to your big-wall climbing needs. These climbing pants are part of the Free Wall Kit. Designed to meet the demands of our ambassadors’ evolving tactics for modern rock climbing objectives, the Free Wall Kit is made for sustained, difficult multipitch routes where even the smallest rest recovers just enough energy for the send. Inseam is 32″ (81 cm). Made in a Fair Trade Certified™ factory.”
Kirsty says:
Made with the same fabric as their Alpine Guide pant, these are a hard wearing and hard working pair of pants, but still feel light and comfortable for full days at the crag. The waistband is low profile, and sits under a harness without pressure points or digging in. It’s adjusted with a small tape and buckle to get the best fit. There’s a back pocket and two thigh pockets, which are all zipped for security on the wall. The thigh pockets are positioned slightly back on the side of your leg, which really keeps the contents well out of the way during climbing. The cuffs have an elasticated drawstring for cinching, but can also be easily rolled up for warmer conditions.
Kev says:
I’ve had a lot of trousers for alpine rock climbing (and also cragging) over the last few years, that have been disappointing. Either a poor cut, annoying or overcomplicated waistband, or just not durable enough. So far the Free Wall Pants are kicking those annoyances into touch. The fabric feels bombproof without feeling too industrial and heavy. Offwidth granite cracks, or impromptu knee bars? No big deal. The waistband is low profile, stretchy and comfortable. The pocket configuration is excellent and the freedom of movement for technical climbing is superb. There’s nothing super innovative about these pants, they’re simplified for the job in hand,. Which does beg the question…why did it take so long?! Great job Patagonia and I guess I’ll be stockpiling these in case they’re discontinued.
Price: £140/€160
Patagonia Houdini Rock Pants (unisex)
Patagonia say:
“The Houdini Rock Pants are our featherweight, wind- and weather-resistant solution to shifting big-wall conditions. They can be deployed when the wind kicks up and pulled on over your harness with unique Spiral Zip cuffs that allow easy on/off without removing your shoes. These climbing pants are part of the Free Wall Kit. Designed to meet the demands of our ambassadors’ evolving tactics for modern rock climbing objectives, the Free Wall Kit is made for sustained, difficult multipitch routes where even the smallest rest recovers just enough energy for the send. Inseam length is 33½” (85 cm). Made in a Fair Trade Certified™ factory.”
Kev says:
We haven’t had a test pair of the Houdini Rock Pants yet but these are clearly a specialist piece of kit. I was always a bit “whatever” about keeping my legs warm between pitches but then I discovered the DAS Light Pants and have used those a lot on multipitch routes already. However they’re often a bit over the top (no pun intended) and often I just need something to keep the wind off. The Houdini Rock Pants look like they’ll do that job perfectly.
Price: £120/€130
Patagonia Free Wall Pack (44 litres)
Patagonia say:
“For big objectives when the crux of the route is 10 pitches up, the Free Wall Pack keeps everything in its place. This climbing backpack has an oversized interior that can hold gear for two climbers, with offset front and back webbing loops for easy gear management at the belay and tagging on steep terrain. The minimalist exterior and stowable waistbelt reduce any potential snag points,with a layer of foam around the interior to prevent punctures. The Free Wall Pack is inspired by cutting-edge wall climbing and designed to meet the demands of evolving tactics for modern rock climbing. Made in a Fair Trade Certified™ factory.”
Kev says:
We haven’t yet used the Free Wall Pack in anger, but these premise is based around a pack that you can comfortably approach with and, haul up the route behind you with enough space for the gear of both climbers. It’s not an out and out haul bag and time will tell if it’s tough enough to be hauled regularly.
The full Free Wall Kit is available on the Patagonia website. We’ll be linking some more in-depth reviews to this piece as the season progresses so watch this space.
About the Authors
KevinAvery is an IFMGA Mountain Guide based near Chamonix, France. He specialises in bespoke multi-pitch and alpine rock climbing, ice and mixed climbing and ski touring adventures. You can check him out @kevinavery.mountainguide on Instagram or email truenorthalpine@gmail.com to make a booking enquiry.
Kirsty Pallas is a Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor based in the Scottish Highlands, where she spends her time in the mountains and on the crags introducing people to the joys of the hills. She’s a member of Oban Mountain Rescue Team, and also works at Mountaineering Scotland as part of the Mountain Safety Team. In her free time, she’ll be biking, splashing around in the sea, or hanging out with her dog Moss.
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